The Ski Holiday Blog

Skiing Chamonix on and off piste

I’ve just returned from an excellent stay at the Chalet Grands Montets in Chamonix.  Newly finished, this chalet has been completely rebuilt from a shell that dates back to the 1940s. Finished to a high standard, it offers a modern twist to the traditional chalet interior. There are five en-suite bedrooms, a large dining and living room, under floor heating, great views from the balcony plus the all important hot tub. Ideal for groups and large families looking for quality with an affordable price tag, this is great value for money!  

Skiing Argentiere and Les Grands Montets

The chalet’s trump card is its location. Chamonix is renowned for extreme skiing and a fragmented, inaccessible ski area, however a quick hop across the road are the Grands Montets lift and ski area. This is fine for intermediates, as are the linked areas of Brévent and Flégère which are easily accessed by a bus from the Montets lift. Complete beginners? No problem, the area of Le Tour is only a 5 minute drive away (a personal driver and mini bus can be arranged for the week) and offers a fantastic area for those just starting out. Very gentle slopes, soaked in sunshine and some of the most stunning views looking back at Mont Blanc. Lovely.

Guided off piste skiing in Courmayeur

Ross Courmayeur

What a view, Courmayeur at its best!

For those looking to go further afield, an off piste guide can be organised from just a day to a whole week. I joined in with a group who were being guided by Sebastien, check out his stuff here!  Making full use of our Mont Blanc unlimited pass, and because Seb knew the snow would be better, we headed through the Mont Blanc tunnel into Courmayeur. Even though it had not snowed in a while, temperatures had remained low. Seb was able to sniff out pockets of untracked powder and everyone enjoyed the fantastic bluebird day. If you are looking to make the most of your time exploring the entire mountain, a guide is invaluable and a safer way of pushing your limits.

Skiing the Vallée Blanche

Walking "like a w****" to get to the Vallée Blanche

Walking "like a w****" to get to the Vallée Blanche

My third and final day in Chamonix and I was set to head up the Aiguille du Midi, the second most popular attraction in France to the Eiffiel tower and apparently busier in the summer than winter. Apart from the stunning views the main reason to get up there is to ski down the Vallée Blanche. I had known about this famous run since I was a child and when the opportunity arose I excitedly grabbed it with both hands. Time would be against us though as my return airport transfer was at 1.30pm… You can actually book a place on the lift in advance (same too for the top Grands Montets lift) and just turn up at the time and avoid any queues. Luckily that day we were able to jump straight on the next available lift. At the middle station you change onto the final lift – this has just one singular cable and no pylons in between the stations, rising parallel with the rock face until you finally reach the summit.

And what a summit! As you can imagine the views are breathtaking and the whole station has a great James Bond feel with buildings and gangways precariously clinging to the mountain. Time to get the harness on, attach crampons and rope up to each other for the walk down the ridge. I had never worn crampons before and the main risk with them is getting caught up with your own spikes and pitching forwards. With the advice of ‘walk like a whore’ we successfully navigated our way down and onto the start of the Vallée run. The ski itself can be completed by an advanced intermediate but you will need a guide and have to be vigilant of crevasses (we passed the French army doing crevasse training on the way down). Also you will need good weather, again mainly for navigating your way down safely but also to take in the sheer beauty of the Mer de Glace and the surrounding peaks. This is the main reason for doing the Vallée Blanche and it’s worth it! Depending on snow conditions you can ski all the way back to town (usually Jan-Feb) otherwise it’s a quick trip down on the train. After a frantic drive I arrived back at the chalet at 1.20pm – a quick pack and onto the transfer –  at Geneva airport 60 minutes later and on the flight back to London and home, all before I could properly collect my thoughts on Chamonix.

As soon as you arrive in Chamonix you can feel it is very different, it feels more serious – and it did not disappoint. This is a proper mountain town, with skiing, not a ski resort. However, Chamonix is truly accessible to all. You could happily stay at one of the Mountain Lodges and explore the Grands Montets for a few days and easily access Flegere and Brevent by bus for the rest of the week. Alternatively, a chauffeured minibus could be arranged for you to all go out and explore one of the best mountain playgrounds the Alps have to offer!

A week in chalet Grands Montets starts from £500pp for remaining dates this season. If you’d like more information about accommodation in Chamonix then you can also visit our Chamonix Chalets website or give Ross a call!

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5 Comments

  1. Posted April 1, 2010 at 12:07 pm | Permalink

    Just makes me want to do the Vallée Blanche even more than before seeing photos like that!

  2. Nick
    Posted April 1, 2010 at 12:52 pm | Permalink

    Chamonix has some of the best skiing I have ever experienced, but still yet to conquer the Vallee Blanche – jealous!

  3. Kirsty
    Posted April 1, 2010 at 2:08 pm | Permalink

    Chamonix sounds like an amazing place! I think it will definitely have to be on my list of must-visit resorts for next season…

  4. Gabsaroonie
    Posted April 6, 2010 at 8:20 am | Permalink

    Chamonix is epic…….

    I rode the Vallee Blanche switch on my bigfeet a few years back and I can tell you that the view back up the mountain is just as good as looking down it!!

  5. Anthony
    Posted July 7, 2010 at 1:33 am | Permalink

    The Vallee Blanche is amazing. Great pictures! I can’t wait to go again!

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